Monday, April 9, 2012

Done, finished!



Today, on Monday April the 9th I am done working here down under. Yesterday was the last day at work, making a grand total of 7 weeks with just 3 days off duty. Hard, but enjoyable at the same time! Tonight I’m staying in Adelaide where I’ll enjoy a good dinner with some friends and fly to Sydney tomorrow.

First things first though!
My last day off was Sunday 3 weeks ago. Saturday night Travis hosted a mid-vintage party (as he does every year) with his own friends coming over but also people we (us 5 living here) work with or want to invite. So it was a fair bunch, a good night with good people and wine. Short night though, the whole Seppeltsfield area had a powercut at about 1am. J Next day was free, a bit of a sleep in and just driving around, visiting some wineries and also showing around in Seppeltsfield. That was the first time I got to go up the the cellar where all the liquid gold is stored. That the barrels which are put aside for 100 years and then opened. This is the only place in the world that has such a collection of fortified wine!
Cellar door @ Wolf Blass

Barrels put down for 100 years

1879 contains the genuine port!


The days at work were busy, only during the last of 3 weeks we worked for 8h a day, which made life a lot easier. Nothing too major happened, just the typical everyday routine – pressings, pumpovers and also cleaning as we were heading towards the end of the vintage. And just before some of us started to leave, we had a joint „nearly-end-of-vintage“ lunch with everyone involved –wineyard workers, cellarhands, winemakers, cellardoor staff!  Good day/night it was! However a bit hangoverish the next morning at work... J
Lunchtime

Clean up


Nearly-end-of-vintage lunch


Nailed that, almost :)

Port & cigar
As I always wanted to taste the 1911 and 1912 port next to one another, but missed the public tasting on the day the latter was released (Feb 20th), my dear colleage Hoody who is in charge of the whole centennial collection (i.e. the 100yo wines) took me down to the dungeon where some of the rarest of wines are stored and filled two glasses. Oh, Feb 20th is the release date because that is when the buidling of the main building including the before mentioned cellars was finished and Benno Seppelt put away a puncheon (read: 500L barrel) of the best port for 100 years to mature. Now the 1911 and 1912 ports were excellent both, but yet quite different. The latter has more flavour, is just a bit bigger wine! They are proud of it here in Seppeltsfield! J
1911 vs 1912


1911 vs 1912 tasting

Accidents do happen :)

Vinegar flies

Note the wallpaper...

... it's all awards!!

Shannon & Gus
 
Solera method for port blending


Last week another dear colleage Wayne took me and some others for a special tour around the premises. What made this so special was the fact we saw some of the rooms that the public doesn’t see. For example another cellar where there’s dozens of wines from 60’s and 70’s. Some of them empty as vinegar flies have eaten away the corks, but most of them still just waiting for their time. Or the trophy room, where most of the award trophies are presented along with more dozens of portwine waaiting for its time. Or the bunker, which Benno had designed just for himself so he could lock himself away for days just to experiment with the wines, blend them to make the best wine he could. The best part of all this is the fact that throughout the time the various owners have still kept all those rooms and those collections of wine for others to see. Seppeltsfield seems a bit surreal, it’s like a museum, yet it’s fully operational. Which wasn’t the case for many many years. The last wine in the gravity flow winery was made in 1984, after which it was closed down and just used as a museum. Only in 2010, a year after Warren Randall bought 50% off from 2 other owners who weren’t too keen in this place, the gravity winery was made operational again. This 2012 vintage was the third one during the so-called new era of Seppeltsfield with the crush of just over 4000tons being the biggest in the whole history of the winery.
A set of 30 bottles, 100ml each, from 1878 to 1907 - just 50'000aud

Trophy room

Benno's bunker



In case you doubted!



Seppeltsfield was not just famous for winemaking. During its glory days Seppeltsfield was also producing vinegar, it was wellknown throughout Australia. Moreover, the whole vinegar production covered whole Seppeltsfield expences, it was running 24/7, 365 days a year. The money from winemaking was all profit. Unfortunately the vinegar factory was closed as the place went under corporate ownership in the 80’s and they decided to drop that part of production. The downside of all this is that reinstating the production will require a lot of money, to upside is that starting it up might be „written“ into the grand plan of future Seppeltsfield. It was an interesting sight though – everything was left as it was during the last day of production when the workers were told the vinegar factory will now be closed and the huge tanks full of vinegar were drained out, door closed and production seized...
On last Saturday, last day off duty and before my last shift we headed out with Jako, Kadri, Merli and Annika (yes, it was 5 Estonians living under the same roof at the end – The Estonian House in Barossa) for a bit of tastings. Hentley Farm and our old friend Tscharke’s Place (were we did some grapepicking before my Seppelts carreer) and ofcourse Seppelts itself as Jako & Kadri hadn’t been there. That visit did not just include sowing the premises – I had agreed with Fiona a long time ago that she’ll get me to taste my birthyear portwine straight from the barrel. So we all did that. I also got to taste 1980 port and 1970 port as Fiona wanted to give us a taste of her birthyear portwine. My comments?! All on this is just crazy – great wine, great emotion and all so different!
Last day at work was not too special, just maybe in two ways – managed to sell my car and it was the last day with a good sip of Barossa Bock beer at the cellar door after work. Great times it was, great people, great atmosphere, great history, great emotions!
Peter, James & James, Travis tasting their 2012 production

@ Hentley Farm

Overlooking Barossa




It sure was great!
 Now I’m due to leave to Sydney tomorrow, where I’ll meet up with Lachie, a good mate from Geelong and explore around the downtown for 1,5 days. Thereafter is a flight booked to Thailand and 5 full days in Phuket (most likely a trip to Koh Phi Phi aswell), after which a flight to Tallinn via Kuala Lumpur and Amsterdam. As Kuala Lumpur does not require a visa and I have a 12h stopover, I’ll explore the city for some time and then Apr 19th at 13.00 I should arrive to Tallinn airport! And that pretty much sums it up now. J It’s been an incredible 13 months here down under, with a little bit more to come. And I’m pretty damn happy to have come down here!

Friday, March 9, 2012

Vintage 2012, Seppeltsfield Winery, vintage cellarhand


The vintage at Seppeltsfield started on Monday, Feb 20th and that means we’ll be flat out working for the next 7-8 weeks, 12h a day or night, 7 days a week. Maybe if we’re not too busy we’ll have a shift off but quite frankly that’s unlikely.
Flying over Barossa

Chateau Tanunda Winery

Welcome to Seppeltsfield

Morning glory




Honestly, this is hard work here! I cannot imagine how this was done in the earlier days, the men working there must have been made out of steel. Nowadays the work we do is peanuts compared to what it used to be about 100 odd years ago. Grapes were crushed using your feet and probably some help of machinery, after which the must (read: crushed grapes with skins) was wheelbarrowed down to the fermentation tanks. After the fermentation process finished, everything that could be run down to the presses with the help of gravity, was flushed down wooden channels (hence the name gravity flow winery), the rest again shoveled out of the tanks and wheeled down into the presses to get the most juice out from the skins. After that, maturation in oak barrels, blending and finally when the winemaker decided, bottling. Today it’s still a very special place, not only here in Barossa Valley but also in larger scale. For example there are not many wineries left in the world (well there weren’t a lot of places to start with) that still have a working gravity flow cellar. So every now and then other winemakers or people learning to be a winemaker and working elsewhere pop in to see this place. Also on daily basis there are 2-3 winery tours that take people through the premises and enable them to see how this place operates. Especially now when winemaking is running on full speed. However for the past 4 years since Seppeltsfield has new ownership, a lot has improved. The fermentation tanks that are made out of concrete and used to be covered with wax, are now being covered with stainless steel (so no tank waxing is involved), crushing, pumping over, pressing, racking is all being done with the help of machinery. Plenty of money has been invested to make this hard work a lot easier, and frankly quicker! And it has paid off! I guess a good evidence for this is that our chief winemaker Fiona Donald was chosen the 2012 winemaker of the year in Barossa.

So why is this work so hard?! Firstly because it’s physical work. A lot of it involves moving the pumps, the big heavy hoses, staying on the feet the whole day long, constantly being active and doing something, anything, everything. It took a week for the body to get used to being „punished“ 12 hours a day, 7 days a week. Let alone the fact that for the first week I worked at nightshift, from 7pm to 7am. The first week also had it’s casualties – one guy slipped from the ladder and though landed on his hands, managed to brake one small bone in his wrist. Therefore some positions were changed and I was moved to dayshift with the aim of also teaching me other jobs – operating the press, the crusher so that I could be a back-up person just in case.
What makes it also hard is the lack of sleep. Despite the fact the 6-7 hours sleep a day should be sufficent, my body does not manage to regain itself. So that is also why I asked yesterday (Thursday Mar 8th) off. A long sleep, easy relaxing day is all you need to get back on tracks. And a little visit to a masseuse doesn’t hurt either. J

My vintage actually started two days before I started at Seppeltsfield, on Saturday, Feb 18th when I went along with Annika and Merli to the vineyard where they got work a day before. The work grapepicking, by hand. As this is where the vintage really starts, I thought I’d go along with the girls and ask the winery owner if they needed an extra pair of hands, just to help out and see how it’s done. Picking is all about being quick. To cut the long story short, the workday lasted from 7am till noon, we picked about 4tons of tempranillo grapes and as I just offered to help out, never considering they’d need to pay me, the friendly owners of the winery thanked me and the girls with some of their wines. What more can you ask for. J
Handpicking at Tscharke's Place





Now what and how are we operating here at Seppeltsfield. First of all you need grapes obviously. As I said earlier, I went along to witness and experience handpicking, yet most of the grapes these days are machine harvested. The reason is obvious – less timeconsuming, less amount of people needed and what’s most important the picking can easily be done during nighttime when it’s cooler! Grapes, when they are ripe, do not like being handled in hot weather, their skins break easier, and even before they reach the crushing. Not good! That’s why the work of picking usually starts early or very early in the morning. Then it’s delivery! Truckfuls pulling up at the crusher every now and then, smaller ones, bigger ones and then there was a stupid BIG one! It took him almost 1 hour to back the trailer up to the crusher. It was just too long and too big for us. J



Followed by crushing!
Incoming grapes


Our small and mighty crusher with John making sure the stems are cleared off

Miranda, nightshift winemaker making sure we have everything in order
And filling the fermentation tanks.



Shannon in charge

Ups, got juiced :)

After which our main work starts – pumpovers and chillings to allow the juice to get more skin contact (i.e. flavours, colour, natural grape goodness), plungings (i.e. to mix the skins and juice differently than pumping over or after pumpovers when we add some additives) and additions of various additives (acids, tannins etc).
Pumpover



Got visitors - Annika, me, Merli

That cap was thick!
That's even thicker!

Juicing the cap for pressing

Plunging


Next step, after 4-6 days in the tanks the juice will be pressed (i.e. separating the juice from the skins). Most of the times successful, sometimes not so succesful. This specific spillage during our first week was about 3700 litres. Not good!









And then it’s time for pumping the juice into other tanks for storage, where also some racking is done in order to clarify the wine and separate the lees (read: residue) from the juice. As the juice continues its fermentation there, so whatever you might get one day for tasting might be a different kind of product some days later. And if the half product (sometimes it might actually end up straight in a bottle, though rarely) we’ve created is good and the potential customers like it, they buy it and send some trucks to collect the goodies. On some occasions the juice is kept for Seppeltsfield own label production, maturation and oaking. Last week me and Nick were in charge of our level where some real good wine was fermenting. As Fiona the winemaker pointed out, we did a good job keeping it that way, so who knows, maybe a 2012 vintage Seppeltsfield Shiraz or Cabernet Savignon, or a blend of those two will have been made by me. J

So this is what we do here. As I said, it’s not easy getting this good wine into a bottle and have everyone enjoy it, yet it’s interesting, rewarding and most of all good fun! J